A Downwind Roar at Last!

On Saturday 29th July we finally had a good wind direction and strength to restart our progress eastwards.  

By late morning, the forecast NW sea breeze had set in and, with some relief, we cast aside our ropes from the rather unremarkable (and expensive) Getxo Marina.

We hoisted sails and were a bit surprised to find ourselves in such a stiff F5-6 breeze and racing along in a rising swell.  So we hastily put 2 reefs in the main and felt much more in control!  We were still doing 7 knots and headed out to sea to keep the recommended 3 miles offshore to avoid the worst of the rough seas.

As we altered course round our first headland, the wind settled to a more manageable F4 and we set up for downwind sailing to cover the 35 miles to Mutriku along the dramatic Basque coastline, with its sea cliffs.

Downwind sail to Mutriku - Basque Country

It seemed strange to feel comfortable in just shorts and t-shirt, even in the earlier stronger winds.

By late afternoon, our chart-plotter told us we were about to close the harbour entrance at Mutriku, although there was no visible sign of it to us, approaching from the West!  At the last moment, it all hove into view and we made our preparations to enter the small marina and harbour.

We steered hard to starboard, looking for a place to lower the main in the outer harbour and found a number of small traditional boats sailing about as well as a fish farm to be carefully avoided.
Then a further challenge, there were more little boats milling about as well as an event taking place inside the tiny marina, with crowds leaning over the harbour wall to cheer on some racing boats.

Cheers for the little racing skulls

Someone appeared and showed us where to tie up and we set off ashore to explore.

Mutriku Marina

There was much beer and wine being drunk by the happy family crowds lining the harbour as the announcer led the festivities and played local music.

This was such a welcome change from the rather sterile and exclusive Getxo and it was lovely to see so many people enjoying themselves together.

A line of traditional sailing (fishing) boats

We found ourselves a friendly bar with a great view of the harbour and settled down to enjoy our glasses of txakoli wine 😊

What a place!

Next day we set off to explore the hillsides about Mutriku and then wound our way back into town.  The festivities from yesterday seemed to be continuing and the place was still buzzing.

Festive Sunday in this Basque town

Street concertina player

One of many coats of arms

Back on board we saw the fleet of local boats returning from their race outside the harbour.

Local sailing boats with oars

And also a dog in their crew

We later enjoyed a swim in one of the two open-air seawater swimming pools next to the beach - ahhh.

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