On Saturday 29th July we finally had a good wind direction and strength to restart our progress eastwards.   By late morning, the forecast NW sea breeze had set in and, with some relief, we cast aside our ropes from the rather unremarkable (and expensive) Getxo Marina. We hoisted sails and were a bit surprised to find ourselves in such a stiff F5-6 breeze and racing along in a rising swell.  So we hastily put 2 reefs in the main and felt much more in control!  We were still doing 7 knots and headed out to sea to keep the recommended 3 miles offshore to avoid the worst of the rough seas. As we altered course round our first headland, the wind settled to a more manageable F4 and we set up for downwind sailing to cover the 35 miles to Mutriku along the dramatic Basque coastline, with its sea cliffs. Downwind sail to Mutriku - Basque Country It seemed strange to feel comfortable in just shorts and t-shirt, even in the earlier stronger winds. By late afternoon, our chart-...

Our marina is in the upmarket seaside outskirts of Bilbao, about 10 km from the city center.  The easy way into town from here is by metro (terminal designs by Norman Foster) but that still involves plenty of walking, so it's lucky that the temperature is only in the mid-twenty degrees Celsius.  Our seaside resort features the wonderful aforementioned transporter bridge, and what pass for holiday cottages around here. 4 Examples of Getxo Homes We took the funicular railway up to the heights above Bilboa for a fine view of the city and then visited the maritime museum, which also explained the massive changes to the city over the last 50 years, from declining industrial to smart tourist (myself excepted, of course). Funicular Railway Bilboa from above After the giddy heights, we returned home (home being Rapport) via the transporter bridge.  And a good way to enjoy the bridge was from an overlooking chocolate shop...... Transporter Bridge, as seen from the chocolate shop A...

Santander turned out to be a major turning point.  The next two days promised strong Westerly winds followed by endless light, variable breezes.  We know from painful experience that light breezes in Biscay normally mean wind rolled out sails, slamming and banging, slow progress with engine running.  It would be tough work, trying to cover the large distances between good harbours, before reaching beautiful Galicia.   Going further West was therefore ruled out and with great regret (especially Doug) and some relief (both of us) we decided to work back Eastwards, along the N. Spanish coast. The anchor chain turned out to be jammed under a rock but came free with some careful motoring in different directions.  Once outside Santander harbour, we were once again rolling, lurching and flogging the sails, engine running for much of the time.  This lasted for about 4 hours and then a good breeze set in, although it was very variable, causing a reef and then t...

We decided to spend 2 full days in lovely Laredo.  First day we did our chores - clothes washing and thoroughly cleaning our bilges, below the cabin sole boards (a worthwhile but lengthy task). View from the fort Second day we decided we had earned a walk up to the fort and its battery above our marina - Fuerte del Rastrillar and Bateria de San Gil, San Miguel y luego SAN CARLOS (catchy title 😃). Street-climb upwards Lemons growing beside our footpath View to sea from the fort Then it was time to set off again - to Santander, 18 miles to the West, unfortunately with light NNE F2-3 winds.  We used the engine to keep us moving and the sails aided our progress a little until we finally dropped anchor in the Playa de la Magdalena at 18:30 after a slow passage. Santander anchorage with the Cantabria mountains behind Guitar practice Next day, we rowed ashore for a comfortable shady walk through the pine trees beside the beach, where families were enjoying a peaceful Saturday. ...

Life can be tough at sea, so we hung around in St Giles-Croix de Vie for a while, for the nasty waves to die down. Croix de Vie Patisserie Of course, it's important to stay fit, even in port, so we took a walk around to see the Biscay waves, crashing onto the local beach.  The waves were quite difficult to notice, due to the lovely bodies laid out on the sand below us.  It was an amusing contrast between fully clad Muslims, playing in the waves and topless heathens, trying to get their bodies darker. A yacht did come out of harbour while we watched.  Twenty minutes later they turned back for home! Grande Plage, Croix de Vie And so back to sea.  We left at dawn, 05:00, and motor-sailed out into the bay, planning an overnight trip to reach Spain.  As the hours passed, the wind died away, the cruising chute went up and down, and the sails flogged in the glassy swell. Doug Feeling Very Annoyed, Boat Rolling, Yanni Motoring, George Steering We poured the spare 20 lit...

This is the (friendly) jam of boats that we found ourselves in at Joinville - On Thursday 13th July, we duly decided our departure time - 10am - and then had a chat with the nearest boats blocking our way out of harbour.  Surprisingly, everyone else has also chosen this same time to leave - huh? And, as it happened, the boats miraculously cleared away just before 10 and we had no trouble at all in casting off and motoring out of Joinville at our appointed time 😀 Our next port of call was to be St Gilles-Croix-de-Vie, just 16 miles away on the mainland opposite Ile D'Yeu.  We had been told they had a good set of events to celebrate Bastille Day tomorrow and we wanted to see. There really was no wind at all, so we motored all the way to St-Gilles and were allocated a place on their visitors' pontoon. Next day we followed the crowds to find the Bastille Day events. The Parade comprising: fire service, police, paramedics, local dignitaries, a marching band, military veterans and...

The winds this trip have been exceptionally light - in fact we have had to use our engine to motor-sail some of the time on every voyage since leaving home.  This is most unusual! On Friday 7th July, we set off from Port Louis headed for Ile de Groix, only 7 miles away, where we had decided to anchor for the night. As we were entering the marked channel out of Lorient harbour, we saw a large and rather beautiful French yacht under sail and moving very slowly near to us.  They shouted over and we soon realised that their engine had failed and they were in danger of drifting into a buoy.  So we took them under tow for an hour or so until they were in deep water and clear of all obstructions. French yacht under tow Luckily a light wind had started up as we were ready to cast them off and we waved our goodbyes. Setting sails once more We motor-sailed in the light airs across to Ile de Groix and dropped anchor between two large areas of mussel beds off Port Lay. Port Lay Port...