This coast is beautiful and dramatic, the ports interesting or delightful. Getting between the ports however is often frustrating with big seas and light winds, often very uncomfortable and wearing on sails and rigging.
Yesterday however was sunny and gentle. We sailed to Pasajes. The wind was from ahead and very light, the swell big, lazy and sliding harmlessly under us. We motored all the way, sails helping only a little. Today we sailed from Pasajes the short 10 miles downwind to Hondarribia, the swell and waves much bigger, rain getting heavier and the wind astern and so light that the sails often flogged. Once again the engine ran the whole way. Either global warming is messing up the weather around here or this is always a bad place for sailing boats! Without an engine, we would not have gone far on this voyage.
The main problem is the series of deep lows passing North of us (over the UK!) sending down the big waves. Meanwhile, down here in a settled high pressure system, we have mainly light sea breezes.
Passing San Sebastian Harbour
The entrance to Pasajes is quite impressive, between the cliffs, opening out inside to a big, quite industrial harbour, coasters unloading opposite the marina.
Pasajes Entrance from the West
Pasajes was having a fiesta (for St Sebastian) with processions, fireworks and bands. The old town centre was noisy, full of life and a bit grimy. Young lads let off fireworks but the locals didn't seem to mind at all. The marina was not very appealing however, rafted outside another boat, no obvious facilities and more expensive than many. The dirty water didn't help, comparing badly with our previous port of Mutriku, where everybody was swimming in the clear harbour waters. We stayed only one night before getting ahead of some stronger weather that is forecast over the next two to three days.
Pasajes Drums, Brass Following
Pasajes - View Out Of Harbour
Pasajes Fireworks from our cockpit
Hondarribia is our last stop in Spain and is a very civilised place. The rain even stopped for a while when we walked into town. From here we sail North up the French coast. In fact, the other side of the harbour is Hendaye, in France. Many boats around here fly both courtesy flags. Time to stock up with Txakoli!
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