We are moving North with more purpose now but the winds are mostly staying light, so we are still very much relying on our faithful Yanmar engine.  Our progress is also beginning to be reduced by a slimy bottom (Rapport doesn't like her bottom dirty and I feel the same) because our Coppercoat is not as effective as it used to be. From Loctudy to St Evette  we touched force 3 for a while, but it stayed at force 2 all next day, so we didn't try to reach L'Aber-Wrach but drifted into Camaret. Leaving St Evette, all is calm Dolphin Hunting a Shoal of Fish Gannets Join in with the Fishing Then, wind at last but rather too much, gusting force 8 (we are never satisfied) so we stayed an extra day in Camaret before sailing on in a good breeze to L'Aber-Wrach. Pointe de St Mathieu, Chenal Du Four On a Buoy, L'Aber-Wrach That was a lovely sail and we do like L'Aber-Wrach but it was a big mistake!  We should have checked out from Brest and then gone directly home from there...

At 05:20 on Friday 11th August we lifted our anchor from Ile de Re and passed under the spectacular bridge to the mainland. The wind was never strong enough for us to be able to sail without motor assistance, if we were going to make adequate progress.  So we motor-sailed for the next 12 hours, all the way to the anchorage just outside Joinville on Ile d'Yeu, a distance of 60 miles.  This was quite annoying but we were determined to move out of the heat and weak winds further South. Next day, we set off after breakfast, headed North - not quite sure where the available winds would take us.  We chose to sail after so much motoring yesterday, albeit close-hauled and the wind first sent us on a heading towards Ireland, then as it gradually veered, we were able to make a more useful course towards the French coast.  So it was that, after 10 hours of nice and gentle sailing, we ended up anchored off the lovely Belle Ile just as the sun was setting. Belle Ile anchorage Dou...

On Monday 7th August, after topping up our fuel and water, we hoisted sails and headed North, away from Hondarribia. Offshore clothing Basque style - pretty warm hereabouts! A helpful F3/4 E wind appeared and we made a steady 5 knots in the light swells - good so far. Our course would take us through the French missile firing range of Les Landes and we had been unable to confirm whether they would be firing today or tomorrow as it had been the weekend and they do not post any Notices out of office hours.  So, in my best French (?), I telephoned the coastguard before we lost our mobile signal and they called the missile range for me.  I was greatly relieved to hear that no firings would take place for the rest of the month until the 27th. However, the wind started to head us and by midday, we were hard on the wind and then having to steer off course to the NW (instead of N as we wanted).  Oh dear but we knew that we were in this for the long run and would decide later wher...

We have been here in Hondarribia for 5 days already, watching wind and wave forecasts but hope to leave tomorrow.  The problem with all these predictions is that planning is too complicated.  Once upon a time, we sailed when the shipping forecast was reasonable for 24 hours and the barometer was behaving.  Now there are endless permutations.  Tomorrow, for example, the waves and swell are well down but the wind a bit light and somewhat adverse.  Too bad, we need to get on with our voyage (but we will top up with fuel before leaving). We've waited out some lively weather here, strong gusty winds and torrential showers. Storm Clouds - Hondarribia Marina Local Headland - Breaking Swells The town of Hondarribia is very attractive, especially the old town, even in the rain. Hondarribia in the Rain Hondarribia - Basque Architecture A big mistake today was to take the ferry across to Hendaye in France, for a change of scene.  It's a very short trip across the rive...

This coast is beautiful and dramatic, the ports interesting or delightful.  Getting between the ports however is often frustrating with big seas and light winds, often very uncomfortable and wearing on sails and rigging. Yesterday however was sunny and gentle.  We sailed to Pasajes.  The wind was from ahead and very light, the swell big, lazy and sliding harmlessly under us.  We motored all the way, sails helping only a little.  Today we sailed from Pasajes the short 10 miles downwind to Hondarribia, the swell and waves much bigger, rain getting heavier and the wind astern and so light that the sails often flogged.  Once again the engine ran the whole way.  Either global warming is messing up the weather around here or this is always a bad place for sailing boats!  Without an engine, we would not have gone far on this voyage. The main problem is the series of deep lows passing North of us (over the UK!) sending down the big waves.  Meanwhile,...

On Saturday 29th July we finally had a good wind direction and strength to restart our progress eastwards.   By late morning, the forecast NW sea breeze had set in and, with some relief, we cast aside our ropes from the rather unremarkable (and expensive) Getxo Marina. We hoisted sails and were a bit surprised to find ourselves in such a stiff F5-6 breeze and racing along in a rising swell.  So we hastily put 2 reefs in the main and felt much more in control!  We were still doing 7 knots and headed out to sea to keep the recommended 3 miles offshore to avoid the worst of the rough seas. As we altered course round our first headland, the wind settled to a more manageable F4 and we set up for downwind sailing to cover the 35 miles to Mutriku along the dramatic Basque coastline, with its sea cliffs. Downwind sail to Mutriku - Basque Country It seemed strange to feel comfortable in just shorts and t-shirt, even in the earlier stronger winds. By late afternoon, our chart-...