A Bitter Pill

Santander turned out to be a major turning point.  The next two days promised strong Westerly winds followed by endless light, variable breezes.  We know from painful experience that light breezes in Biscay normally mean wind rolled out sails, slamming and banging, slow progress with engine running.  It would be tough work, trying to cover the large distances between good harbours, before reaching beautiful Galicia.  

Going further West was therefore ruled out and with great regret (especially Doug) and some relief (both of us) we decided to work back Eastwards, along the N. Spanish coast.

The anchor chain turned out to be jammed under a rock but came free with some careful motoring in different directions.  Once outside Santander harbour, we were once again rolling, lurching and flogging the sails, engine running for much of the time.  This lasted for about 4 hours and then a good breeze set in, although it was very variable, causing a reef and then tricky downwind sailing as it veered around behind us.  We also enjoyed some heavy showers, which was almost a welcome change after all the sun we've been having.

Bilbao Approaches, Downwind, Rosie Concentrates

Bilbao was an amazing harbour to approach (we went straight down the shipping channel, with only yachts around), large blocks of concrete and huge walls.  The rolling seas continued well into the harbour, which seemed to be missing it's Eastern breakwater.

Bilbao Entrance

We were snugged into Getxo Marina, in spite of a huge influx of French racing yachts and enjoyed being well tied up as the wind moaned and the rain fell in showers.  Next morning, sun and more rain and a walk to admire the amazing local architecture (more of that anon).

Rapport in Getxo Marina

Vizcaya Transporter Bridge was on our walking route, very impressive, built in 1893 and still running for pedestrians and cars (as opposed to the original carts; who knows what the horses thought of it).

Vizcaya Transporter Bridge

We plan to stay here for a few days, there's lots to explore. 






Comments

  1. Bruce&CarolJuly 25, 2023 at 1:32 PM

    Pity about the Rias but we really enjoyed the Basque Country

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Edging Cooler

Image
At 05:20 on Friday 11th August we lifted our anchor from Ile de Re and passed under the spectacular bridge to the mainland. The wind was never strong enough for us to be able to sail without motor assistance, if we were going to make adequate progress.  So we motor-sailed for the next 12 hours, all the way to the anchorage just outside Joinville on Ile d'Yeu, a distance of 60 miles.  This was quite annoying but we were determined to move out of the heat and weak winds further South. Next day, we set off after breakfast, headed North - not quite sure where the available winds would take us.  We chose to sail after so much motoring yesterday, albeit close-hauled and the wind first sent us on a heading towards Ireland, then as it gradually veered, we were able to make a more useful course towards the French coast.  So it was that, after 10 hours of nice and gentle sailing, we ended up anchored off the lovely Belle Ile just as the sun was setting. Belle Ile anchorage Dou...
Read more

Home Once More

Image
Having completed our outward customs clearance plus some fresh food shopping, we were finally ready to leave Roscoff at midday.   After stopping at the marina's self-service fuel pump for a refill, we set a northerly course away from the French coast.  It felt good to be on our way home! There was little wind and we motored for most of the 96 miles across the Channel, stopping the engine only for brief periods, when a light breeze started up but later deserted us. Overnight, we witnessed an interesting phenomenon. Night-time view forward Our starboard (green) navigation light seemed to be attracting a school of medium sized fish (herrings perhaps) that swam alongside the boat and were leaping out of the water in flashes of silver.  This was soon noticed by a pod of dolphins, who enjoyed snapping up this ready-meal and entertained us for hours as they satisfied their hunger! As dawn broke, we could make out Rame Head and the entrance to Plymouth Sound ahead of us....
Read more

No Pain, No Gain

Image
This coast is beautiful and dramatic, the ports interesting or delightful.  Getting between the ports however is often frustrating with big seas and light winds, often very uncomfortable and wearing on sails and rigging. Yesterday however was sunny and gentle.  We sailed to Pasajes.  The wind was from ahead and very light, the swell big, lazy and sliding harmlessly under us.  We motored all the way, sails helping only a little.  Today we sailed from Pasajes the short 10 miles downwind to Hondarribia, the swell and waves much bigger, rain getting heavier and the wind astern and so light that the sails often flogged.  Once again the engine ran the whole way.  Either global warming is messing up the weather around here or this is always a bad place for sailing boats!  Without an engine, we would not have gone far on this voyage. The main problem is the series of deep lows passing North of us (over the UK!) sending down the big waves.  Meanwhile,...
Read more